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A person holds shoe polish jars at a wooden table with brown leather shoes, shoe brushes, a cloth, and several polish containers arranged neatly. The scene suggests a shoe care or polishing setup.

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Saphir Médaille d'Or shoe polish colour guide

Polishing time:

N/A

Difficulty

Beginners

Introduction

Shoe polish will almost never exactly match the colour of your shoes. Even though your shoes are made and branded the colour ‘Cognac’ there are still many interpretations of what the colour needs to look like. This guide will mostly refer to Saphir Médaille d’Or Pommadier shoe creams, but also apply to Saphir Pate de Luxe shoe wax and Saphir crème Surfine since they all use the same colour numbering and naming.

Neutral or coloured shoe polish?

If you're unsure about which shoe polish colour to pick, a neutral shoe cream or shoe wax is often the easiest and safest option. It nourishes the leather while keeping the original colour of your shoes intact. That said, a coloured polish can be really useful too. Over time, leather can lose some of its vibrancy, and that's when a matching shoe cream helps bring the colour back to life. It’s also handy for covering up scuffs and scratches (more on that below).

Make sure to choose the right colour, as a coloured shoe polish will recolor the leather. This is a gradual process, since only about 10% of the pigment in the cream remains on the shoes, so don’t worry about your shoes suddenly changing colour. Sometimes, a colour change is actually desired, in which case you’ll need to polish a bit more frequently. For optimal results during regular maintenance, we recommend alternating between a neutral cream and a pigmented shoe cream.

One exception: For black shoes, we advise using only black shoe cream and wax.

Tip!

Apply shoe cream and wax in thin layers to avoid uneven colouring. Allow it to absorb for 3–5 minutes, then polish with a soft brush.

Covering up scratches

To camouflage scratches or any deep cuts into the leather we recommend using a coloured Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier shoe cream and Saphir Médaille d'Or Pate de Luxe wax. Also, using a neutral or colourless polish for a long period of time can cause the colour of your shoes to fade a bit so alternating between a neutral and a coloured shoe polish is recommended. If you are doubting between two shades we  recommend picking the one that is slightly darker than the colour of your shoes. A Pommadier cream that is slightly darker than your shoes does a better job at masking scratches and restoring faded colour.

Tip!

When camouflaging scratches, it’s best to apply the shoe cream with a cotton cloth or your fingertips. This way you massage the cream more effectively into the leather, allowing the pigment to bond more deeply and fill the damage more evenly and naturally. Work in small, circular motions for an even result.

Colour guide

A glass jar of black ink labeled in multiple languages sits next to a textured brushstroke of black ink on a white background.

01. Black

For black shoes we recommend using only black colour shoe polishes (Saphir Renovateur excluded)

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

02. Neutral

Neutral shoe cream and shoe wax is suitable for all colour shoes except black shoes. A practical choice if you want to treat many different colour shoes.

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

A small glass jar of light brown paint labeled 03 Light Brown sits next to a large brushstroke of the same warm, golden-brown color on a white background.

03. Light brown

This is one of the lightest shades of brown in the Saphir Médaille d'Or assortment. Suited for light brown shoes, but sometimes also works for more yellow-ish shades of tan.

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

Colour matched with:

- Allen Edmonds Walnut | Light brown
- Crockett & Jones Tan Burnished Calf | Light brown

04. Brown

A basic colour to have in your shoe shine set. Just a shade darker than 37 medium brown, but less warm theref,ore suitable for a wide range of brown coloured shoes.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

05. Dark brown

This is the darkest shade of brown in the Saphir Médaille d'Or colour range. Some shoe brands tend to call this colour espresso. In most cases this is the colour you want to use to give or maintain the dark brown patina on your toe caps.

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

A glass jar of navy blue ink labeled Bleu Marine 06 sits next to a textured navy blue ink swatch painted in a circular pattern.

06. Dark blue / Navy blue

A very dark blue which would almost make you think it is black when looking at it in the jar. Perfect to recolour your dark blue shoes with. The more creative among us sometimes use Pate de Luxe in this colour to create a dark blue glossy finish.

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

07. Saphir blue

A bright and playful shade of blue and Saphir's brand colour.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

A square glass jar of Bordeaux Burgundy-Granate ink with a black lid is shown next to a rich, textured purple ink swatch on a white background.

08. Burgundy

A warm burgundy colour for all your burgundy coloured shoes.

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

Colour matched with:

- Loake strand | Burgundy

09. Mahogany

A shade of brown that leans more towards red than any brown shade. The go to colour for all your mahogany coloured shoes.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax

Colour matched with:

- Loake Aldwych | Mahogany
- Crockett & Jones Chestnut Burnished Calf | Mahogany

A square glass jar of brown ink labeled 10 COGNAC COGNACBRAU sits next to a large swatch of the ink in a warm, coppery-brown shade on a white background.

10. Cognac

A rich, warm cognac shade that’s both elegant and eye-catching. This colour has a timeless appeal and pairs beautifully with many leathers. For cooler/paler cognac tones, shade 03 Light Brown may be a closer match.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax

Colour matched with:

- Crockett & Jones Chestnut Antiqued Calf | Cognac

11. Red

This bright red colour by Saphir Médaille d'Or is similar to the shade of red Christian Laboutin uses for their leather soles. Suited for the more playfull shoes.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax

A glass jar of Rouge Hermès ink, labeled “12 Hermes Red,” sits next to a large swatch of the deep pink-red ink brushed onto a white background.

12. Hermes red

A more distinguished, elegant shade of red available exclusively in the Pommadier shoe cream range. Its deep tone makes it perfectly suited for oxblood shoes, adding richness and refinement while enhancing the leather’s natural depth.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

14. Grey

A versatile shade of grey by Saphir Médaille d'Or. Perfect for all your light grey shoes.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax

A glass jar of dark grey ink labeled “Gris Foncé 15” is shown beside a large brushstroke of the same dark grey ink color on a white background.

15. Dark grey

A versatile shade of grey by Saphir Médaille d'Or. Perfect for all your dark grey shoes.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

16. Beige

16. beige is suitable for all your beige and camel coloured leather shoes. Leathers in these lighter shades are suseptible to staining so be sure to do a little test on the shoes first. This colour makes it possible to recolour even these lighter coloured leathers.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

A square glass ink bottle labeled 20 VERT FONCÉ with dark green ink inside sits next to a large swatch of dark green ink brushed on a white background.

20. Dark green

A beautiful dark green shade also often refferred to as forest green or bottle green.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

21. White

With this white shoe cream you can colour yellowed white leather white(r). Please note that shoe cream isn't a paint or a dye and will only colour the leather slightly per application.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

A glass jar of brown ink labeled 34 Havane Tabakbrown with the lid on, next to a broad, textured brown brushstroke on a white background.

34. Tobacco brown

Tobacco brown AKA havane by Saphir Médaille d'O is usually best suited for shoes labeled as dark brown. This shade of brown is less dark and a little warmer than 05. Dark brown.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax

Colour matched with:

- Crockett & Jones Connaught 2 | Dark brown burnished calf
- Loake Cannon | Dark Brown

37. Medium brown

This shade of brown is available for almost all products. The colour probably makes you think of milk chocolate the most.

Almost all Saphir products are available in this colour. Among some of the the most popular products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream
Pate de Luxe shoe wax
Mirror Gloss shoe wax

Colour matched with:

Loake Buckingham | Brown

A square glass jar of brown paint labeled NOISETTE HASSELNUSS BRAUN HAZEL-AVELLANA 38 next to a textured smear of light brown or hazel-colored paint on a white background.

38. Hazelnut

A beautiful shade of brown suited for hazelnut brown shoes. A colour often used to dye shoes with.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

39. Natural leather

The colour of untreated vegetable tanned leather. Lighter and slightly less yellow than 03 light brown.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

A square glass jar of petroleum blue paint labeled “46 BLEU PETROLE PETROLEUM BLUE” sits next to a textured swatch of the same blue color, shown in thick, swirling brushstrokes.

46. Petrol blue

A pretty shade of dark blue that reminds us of a dark blue pair of jeans.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

87. Plum

This colour is similar to 08 Burgundy, but has more purple mixed in than red.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

A square glass jar of cherry red paint labeled 89 Rouge Cerise sits next to a large, textured swatch of the same vibrant red color on a white background.

89. Cherry

A slightly more grown up version of 11 Red. Less bright and outspoken and therefore also has more usecases.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

910. Parisian brown

Slightly darker than 34 Tobacco brown, but slightly lighter than 05 dark brown this colour falls right in between. Parisian brown is slightly cooler in colour almost like it contains just a splash of grey.

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream

Colour matched with:

- Edward Green Chelsea | Dark oak antique

- Crockett & Jones Connaught | Dark brown burnished calf

A glass jar labeled “917 Noisette Clair” with a brown lid, filled with light hazelnut-colored ink, sits beside a thick, swirling brushstroke of the ink in a soft, brownish-pink shade.

917. Light hazelnut

A light hazelnut colour. Close to 10 cognac, but less warm in it's colour. (Less orange).

This colour is available for products:

Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream